Mérida Bed and Breakfast Association

Taco de Cochinita

Recipes from the Yucatán find their way in the “Slow Food” cookbook, and our region’s cuisine caused a sensation in San Francisco in the summer of 2008 when “Tamales  Yucatecos” were served at the Slow Food Nation convention, the first ever, in the United States.  That said, we can also say with confidence that international fast food restaurants are consistent around the world.  McDonalds, Burger King, KFC, Pizza Hut, Chili’s, etc. in Mérida are the same as what you find anywhere else.  The same can be said of the kinds of restaurant choices one finds at international hotel chains, from the Marriott to the Hyatt, the Fiesta Americana to the Intercontinental.  We are neither reviewing nor listing these restaurants in this section, since they are found in most guidebooks and online resources.

Ceviche, marinated seafood

Now, a word about why yucatecos don’t frequent great restaurants.  For a variety of reasons, cultural norms encourage home cooking, and many families boast tremendous culinary talents in their families.  That is different from having a society, like in Buenos Aires, Barcelona, Tokyo or Paris, where people go out for great meals, whether at a sidewalk café, neighborhood bistro or full-service restaurant.  The same can be said of the United States and Canada, where even in New York, the city that pretends it is the city that never sleeps, almost all kitchens take their last orders at 10:30 p.m., and if it’s 1 a.m. and you want a meal, you’re likely to end up at 24-hour fast-food place.  If you notice that our listing differs from what you find in your guidebooks, remember: Travel writers are seldom restaurant critics, and many concentrate on the familiar paths tourists take while in town.  This is not a criticism; it is reality.  Not one guidebook, for example, lists Restaurant Byblos, probably because none is prepared to venture to the Lebanese Social & Sports Club, thinking that it is a private club.

Chiles en Nogada

Finally, since we live and work here, we do know where to eat and we do care where our guests eat!  We are innkeepers: We live here, we eat here, we know about the great little places that aren’t found in the any guidebooks, and we offer our personal advice to our guests.  “It says that’s a great place to eat in that book? Maybe that was years ago, before so-and-so left.”  “You mean to say they don’t even mention this great place?  What a terrible omission, go and tell so-and-so I sent you!”

With this background, what follows is a list, by consensus, of great places to eat in Mérida that offer great food, excellent value, and are places that you will remember. 

We first list “Cheap Eats,” where you can find excellent meals at mom-and-pop run places around town.  Most are market stalls, but don’t be hesitant: they use purified water, and the only problem you’ll have is if you put too much habanero chili in your food!

Then we list sit-down restaurants, where you find exceptional food, value and a great eating experience.

And afterwards, we mention a great place for sorbets and a good bakery.

Centro (Downtown):

Amaro

Cuisine: Yucatecan and Vegetarian
Telephone: (999) 928-2451
Address: Calle 59 # 507, between 60 and 62 Streets
Parking: No (in public parking lots nearby)
Air Conditioned: No
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 11 am to 2 am
Website: http://www.restauranteamaro.com

Bella Epoca

Cuisine: Yucatecan
Telephone: (999) 928-1928
Address: Calle 60 #497, between 57 and 59 Streets
Parking: 2 doors north of the restaurant is a parking lot
Air Conditioned: No
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 5 pm to 1 am

Cafe Alameda

 - Lebanese comida economica in Centro

Cuisine: Lebanese
Telephone: (999)  928 3635
Address: Intersection of Calle 58 and Calle 55
Parking: Next door in a public lot
Air Conditioned: No
Drinks: Beer and Soft Drinks
Hours: Daily, 8:00 am to 5:00 pm

Cafe Chocolate

Cuisine: Coffee Shop
Telephone: (999)  928-5113
Address: Intersection of Calle 60 Calle 49
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: No
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: No Alcohol is served
Hours: Daily, 7 am to 12 am
Website: http://www.cafe-chocolate.com.mx

Cafe Club Manushan

Cuisine: Cafe
Telephone: (999)  923-1592
Address:  Intersection of Calle 55 and Calle 58
Parking: Next door in the public lot
Air Conditioned: One room is sometimes air conditioned
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Beer and Soft Drinks
Hours: Monday-Saturday from 7:00 am to 5:00 pm

Cafe El Hoyo

Cuisine: Cafe
Telephone: (999)  928-1531
Address: Calle 62 #487, between 59 and 57 Streets
Parking: No
Air Conditioned: No
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Lattes, soft drinks, non-alcoholic beverages
Hours: Monday- Saturday  from 9 am to 11 pm
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/cafe-el-hoyo/103219969831#!/pages/cafe-el-hoyo/103219969831?v=wall

Cafe La Habana

Cuisine: Coffee shop, Yucatan-style breakfasts
Telephone: (999)  928-0608
Address: Intersection of  Calle 59 and Calle 62
Parking: Across the street in city parking lot
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: No
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: 24 hours

Cafe Peon Contreras

Cuisine: International
Telephone: (999)  924-7003
Address: Calle 60, between 57 and 59 Streets
Parking: No
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 7 am to 1 am

Cafe Santiago de Chile

Cuisine: Coffee and breakfasts
Telephone: (999) 154-5565
Address: Calle 59 #572, between 70 and 72 Streets
Parking: Street parking
Air Conditioned: No
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Coffees, teas, breakfasts
Hours: Monday-Saturday, 7am to 1 pm

Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Merida-Mexico/Cafe-Santiago-de-Chile/101782199884142?v=info&ref=ts#!/pages/Merida-Mexico/Cafe-Santiago-de-Chile/101782199884142?v=wall&ref=ts

Casa Lucia

Cuisine: International, mostly Italian
Telephone: (999)  928 2863
Address: Calle 60 #474 A between 53 and 55 Streets
Parking: No
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily,  7:30 am to 11:00 pm
Website: http://www.casalucia.com.mx

El Gallito

Cuisine: Yucatecan
Telephone: (999)  928-6495
Address: Calle 45 between 60 and 62 Streets
Parking: Yes, across the street
Air Conditioned: No
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Soft drinks, beer and hard liquors
Hours: Daily, 11 am to 7 pm
Website:: http://cantinasdemerida.blogspot.com/2006/10/el-gallito.html

El Trapiche

Cuisine: Tacos and Yucatecan food
Telephone: (999)  928 1231
Address: Calle 62 #491 between 59 and 61 Streets
Parking: No
Air Conditioned: No
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Beer and Soft Drinks
Hours: Daily, 7:00 am to 11:00 pm

Hotel Casa del Balam

Cuisine: Yucatecan and International
Telephone: (999) 924-8844
Address: Calle 60 #  488 by 57 Street
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 7 am to 12 pm
Website: http://www.casadelbalam.com

La Blanca Merida

Cuisine: Yucatecan
Address: Calle 62 and 59 Street
Parking: No
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: No
Drinks: Soft drinks and beers
Hours: Daily, 7am to 2 am

La Casa de Frida

Cuisine: Mexican
Telephone: (999)  928-2311
Address: Calle 61 #526-A between 66 and 68 Streets
Parking: No
Air Conditioned: No
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Monday-Friday: 6 pm to 10 pm; Saturday: 12 am to 5 pm and 6 pm to 10 pm;  Sunday: 12 am to 5 pm
Website: http://www.lacasadefrida.com.mx

La Casa de Te

Cuisine: Tea/Coffee House with salads and crepes salads
Address: Calle 62 between 55 and 57 Streets
Parking: No
Air Conditioned: No
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Soft Drinks, Coffees and Teas
Hours: Monday – Saturday, 3:00 pm to 11:00 pm

La Chaya Maya

Cuisine: Yucatecan
Telephone: (999)  928 4780
Address: Calle 62 and 57 Street
Parking: In adjacent city parking lot
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: No
Drinks: Beer and soft drinks
Hours: 7 am to 11 pm Every Day

La Choperia

Cuisine: Brazilian and Mexican fusion
Telephone: (999)  924-4488
Address: Calle 56 #456 between 51 and 53 Streets
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Tuesday to Saturday: 1 pm to 2 am;  Sunday 1 pm to 7 pm.

La Flor de Santiago

Cuisine: Coffee and Breakfast diner
Telephone: (999) 928-5591
Address: Calle 70 between 57 and 59 Streets
Parking: No
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Coffees, teas, soft drinks and beer
Hours: Daily, 7am to 2 am

La Sabia Virtud

Cuisine: Mexican
Telephone: (999) 252-0380
Address: Calle 55 #504 between 60 and 62 Streets
Parking: No
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: No
Drinks: Soft Drinks
Hours: Monday-Wednesday: 7:30 am to 6 pm; Thursday- Saturday: 7:30 am to 10 pm; Sunday: 8 am to 6 pm
Website: http://www.lasabiavirtud.com

Los Almendros

Cuisine: Yucatecan
Telephone: (999)  923-8135
Address: Calle 57  # 468 by 52 Street
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: No
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 12 am to 6 pm

Los Henequenes

Cuisine: Yucatecan
Telephone: (999) 923-6220
Address: Calle 57 #479 by 56 Street
Parking: Street parking available
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: No
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily,  11 am to 7 pm
Website: http://www.loshenequenes.com

Pan E Vino

Cuisine: Italian
Address: Calle 59 and 64 Street
Parking: No
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: No
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday: 7 pm to 2 am; Sunday: 1pm to 2 am, Closed on Monday

Panchos

Cuisine: Mexican &Yucatecan
Telephone: (999) 923-0942
Address: Calle 59 , between 60 and 52 Streets
Parking: City parking on the corner of Calle 62 and 59 Street
Air Conditioned: No
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 6pm to 2 am
Website: http://www.trottersmerida.com

Pizzas Raffaelo

Cuisine: Pizza
Neighborhood: Centro
Telephone: (999) 924-9943
Address: Calle 60 by 49 Street
Parking: No
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: No
Drinks: Soft Drinks
Hours: Monday-Friday, Noon to 4 pm and 5:30 pm to 11:30 pm; Saturday-Sunday, 5 pm to Midnight

Portico del Peregrino

Cuisine: Yucatecan with some international cuisine
Telephone: (999) 928-6163
Address: Calle 57 by 60 Street
Parking: City parking on the corner of Calle 62 and 57 Street

Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 12am to 12 pm

Restaurant San Jose

Cuisine: Yucatecan
Telephone: (999) 928-6657
Address: Calle 63, between 62 and 64 Streets
Parking: No
Air Conditioned: No
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Beer and Soft Drinks
Hours: Daily, 7:00 am to 10:30 pm

Siqueff

Cuisine: Lebanese and International
Telephone: (999) 925-5027
Address: Calle 60 # 350, between 35 and 37 Streets
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 8 am to 6 pm

Colonia Alcala:

La Tradicion

Cuisine: Yucatecan
Telephone: (999) 925-2526
Address: Calle 60 # 293 by 25 Street
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: No
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 11:30 am to 6:30 pm

Pimienta

Cuisine: Yucata, but only breakfast and lunch.
Telephone: (999) 920-2953
Address: Calle 60 #326, between 23 and 25 Streets
Parking: Street parking
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: No
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily at 8 am to 6 pm

Colonia Benito Juarez Norte (Prolongación Montejo Norte):

Buda Wok

Cuisine: Chinese/International
Telephone: (999)  948-3088
Address: Prolongación Montejo #367, between 47 and 49 Streets
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Monday-Saturday:1:00pm to 2:00am and Sunday: 1:00pm a 6:00pm

Konsushi

Cuisine: Japanese
Telephone: (999)  948-1377
Address: Adjacent to the Banamex office
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Domestic and International beers
Hours: Daily, 1 pm to 12 am

La Recova

Cuisine: Argentinian Steakhouse
Telephone: (999) 944-0215
Address: Prolongación Montejo #382 between 33 and 35 Streets
Parking: Yes (Valet)
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: No
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Monday-Saturday: 1pm to 2 am; Sunday: 1 pm to 12 am
Website: www.larecovamerida.com

Colonia Buenavista:

Meyer’s

Cuisine: Deli
Telephone: (999) 926-0117
Address: Calle 13 Local #7 between 36 and 38 Streets
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 7:00 am to 11:00 pm

Muelle 8

Cuisine: Seafood
Telephone: (999) 944-5343
Address: C.21 # 142 between 30 and 32 Streets
Parking: Street parking
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: No
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 12 am to 6 pm

La Tratto

Cuisine: Italian
Telephone: (999) 927-0434
Address: Avenida Paseo Montejo # 479 C
Parking: Street parking
Air Conditioned: No
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 6 pm to 2 am
Website: http://www.trottersmerida.com

Rincón Oaxaqueño

Cuisine: Oaxacan
Neighborhood: Col. Buenavista
Telephone: (999) 286-9492
Address: Circuito Colonias #151 between 40 and 60 Streets
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Drinks: Soft drinks
Hours: Tuesday to Saturday: 12:00 am to 11:00 pm; Sunday: 9:00 pm to 5:00 pm

Trotters

Cuisine: Steak, Fish, Salads, Tapas
Telephone: (999) 927-2310
Address: Circuito Colonias, between Prolongación Montejo and Calle 60 Norte, adjacent to the Renault dealer
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Monday-Saturday: 1pm to 2 am, Sunday: 1pm to 6 pm

Website: http://www.trottersmerida.com

Colonia Campestre:

Café La Habana

Cuisine: Coffee shop, Yucatan-style breakfasts
Telephone: (999)  928-0608
Address: Prolongación Montejo #260, across from Club Campestre
Parking: Street parking

Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: No
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: 24 hours

OneBurger

Cuisine: Hamburgers and fries
Telephone: (999)   999-948-2626

Address: Prolongación Montejo #250, across from Club Campestre
Parking: Street parking

Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Shakes and sodas
Hours: Sunday – Wednesday, Noon - 11 pm; Thursday – Saturday, Noon t- 2 am.

Colonia Diaz Ordaz (Most near Paseo de Montejos at Monumento a la Patria):

Cubanissimo

Cuisine: Cuban
Telephone: (999)  9-43-1559
Address: Avenida Correa Racho 380 between 9 and 11 Streets Col. Díaz Ordaz
Parking:Yes
AirConditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Beer and soft drinks
Hours: 12 pm to 12 am Every Day

Cubaro

Cuisine: International
Telephone: (999)  926-6587
Address: Monumento a la Patria and Paseo de Montejo
Parking: Valet or on along the side streets
Air Conditioned: No
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 1pm to 2 am

Meson del Conde

Cuisine: Spanish
Telephone: (999) 943-2828
Address: Avenida Correa Rancho #370
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 11 am to 7 pm

Nectar

Cuisine: International
Telephone: (999) 938-0838
Address: Avenida 21 # 413 between 6-A and 8 Streets

Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: No
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Tuesday-Saturday: 7 pm to 2 am; Sunday: 1pm to 2 am, Closed on Monday
Website: http://www.nectarmerida.com

Slavia

Cuisine: Tapas and International Entrees
Telephone: (999) 926-6587
Address: Monumento a la Patria and Paseo de Montejo
Parking: Yes, valet parking and some limited parking on the street
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: No
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 6pm to 2 am

Tobago

Cuisine: Coffees, teas and desserts
Telephone: (999) 926-6587
Address: Monumento a la Patria and Paseo de Montejo
Parking: Valet parking at Slavia
Air Conditioned: No
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Every Day: 6 pm to 2 am

Colonia Emilio Zapata Norte (Prolongación Montejo Norte):

Ca’D'Oro

Cuisine: Italian
Telephone: (999)  948-1155
Address: Prolongación Montejo and Calle 34, inside the shopping center

Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Tuesday to Saturday: 1 pm to 5 pm and 7:30 pm to 12 am; Sunday: 1pm to 5pm; Monday: Closed
Website: http://www.cadoro.com.mx

El Argentino

Cuisine: Steak House
Telephone: (999)  926-5444
Address: Prolongación Montejo # 116, by Calle 25
Parking: Ample street parking
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: No
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Monday- Saturday:1 pm to 12 am, Sunday 1 pm to 8 pm

La Rueda

Cuisine: Steak House
Telephone: (999) 912-2387
Address: Calle 37 #352-A by 67-B Street
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: No
Drinks: Full bar

Hours: Daily, 12 pm to 2 am

Tapioca Joe

Cuisine: Teas and smoothies
Address: Calle 34 #396, between 39 and 41 Streets
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Beverages
Hours: Monday - Thursday, Noon to 9 pm; Friday – Saturday, Noon to 10:30 pm; Sunday, 12:30 pm to 7:00 pm.
Website: www.tapiocajoe.com
Facebook: www.facebook.com/people/Tapioca-Joe/100000638496040

Colonia Garcia Gineres:

El Tio Ricardo

Cuisine: Steak House
Telephone: (999) 925-2967
Address: Calle 8 #201 and 23 Street
Parking: Street parking
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: No
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 12pm to 12 am

Los Platos Rotos

Cuisine: Central Mexican
Telephone: (999) 925-3097
Address: Calle 33-D #498 by Reforma, Suite 3
Parking: Street parking
Air Conditioned: No
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Soft Drinks and fruit juices
Hours: Monday – Friday, 8:00 am to about 3:00 pm

Colonia Itzimna:

Due Torri

Cuisine: Italian
Telephone: (999)  926-2505
Address: Calle 27 #349 between 10 and 12 Streets
Parking: Ample street parking
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 1 pm to 11:15 pm

Entre Tangos

Cuisine: Steak House
Telephone: (999)  938-1838
Address: Ave. Perez Ponce 118, between 21 and 23 Streets
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: No
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Tuesday -Saturday:1pm to 12 am; Sunday: 1-6pm

Wine House International

Cuisine: International
Telephone: (999)  286-8029
Address: Calle 20 #91-A, between 15 and 17 Streets

Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar, specializing in rums
Hours: Tuesday – Sunday, 1:30 pm to midnight

Colonia Jesus Carranza:

Hacienda San Antonio

Cuisine: Steak and Tacos
Neighborhood: Col. Jesus Carranza
Telephone: (999)   926-0480
Address: Calle 27 by 44 Street
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Soft Drinks and beer
Hours: Daily, 12 pm to 7 pm

Colonia Mejorada:

El Café

Cuisine: Breakfast and Lunch
Telephone: (999)  924-0117
Address: Calle 59 #452-A between 52 and 54 Streets
Parking: Public parking across the street
Air Conditioned: No
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Coffees, teas and soft Drinks
Hours: Daily, 7:30 am to 4 pm

Colonia Mexico:

Acitrón

Cuisine: International, but with a Yucatecan twist
Telephone: (999) 926-0707
Address: Calle 30 #122-A, between 27 and 29 Streets, Plaza la Avenida (along Prolongación Montejo)
Parking: Street parking
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Tuesday through Saturday, 1 pm to 2 am; Sunday 1 pm to 6 pm
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Merida-Mexico/ACITRON/75112500828

Acqua

Cuisine: International
Telephone: (999) 926-8211
Address: Calle 21 # 73, between 12 and 14 Streets
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Monday-Saturday: 1.30 pm to 2 am; Sunday: 1-5 pm and Monday: 6pm to 1 am

BBT Wings

Cuisine: American
Telephone: (999) 254-0909
Address: Calle 27 #98, between 20 and 18 Streets
How to Get There from the Centro:
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, from 6 pm to 2 am

Bennigan’s

Cuisine: American
Telephone: (999) 927-2731
Address: Intersection of Prolongación Montejo and Calle 27
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Sunday-Tuesday: 1pm-12 am; Wednesday-Thursday:12pm-1 am; Friday-Saturday: 1pm -2am
Website: http://www.bennigans.com

Buenos Aires City

Cuisine: Steak House
Telephone: (999)  927-9090
Address: Circuito Colonias corner of Calle 12
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 1pm to 12 am
Website: http://www.buenosairescity.com.mx

Campay

Cuisine: Japanese
Telephone: (999)  948-0385
Address: Calle 19 # 106 on the corner of 22 Street
Parking: Street parking
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: No
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 1pm to 11 pm

Go Green

Cuisine: Salad Bar
Address: Prolongación Montejo and 19 Street
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Soft Drinks
Hours: Daily, 12 am to 12 pm

Guru

Cuisine: Lebanese
Telephone: (999)  252-8400
Address: Calle 20 S/N
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Tuesday- Saturday: 1pm to 2 am; Sunday 1 pm to 6 pm
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=42910880447

La Nao de China

Cuisine: Chinese
Telephone: (999) 926-1441
Address: Circuito Colonias #13, between Prolongación Paseo Montejo and Chapur Department Store
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: No
Drinks: Soft drinks and beers
Hours: Daily, 11 am to 9 pm

La Parrilla

Cuisine: Mexican
Telephone: (999) 944-3999
Address: Calle 30 #87 by 17 Street

Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 12 pm to 2 am
Website: http://www.laparrilla.com.mx

Sushi Itto

Cuisine: Sushi
Telephone: (999) 944-3232
Address: Prolongación Montejo # 348, between 29 and 31 Streets
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: National and imported beers
Hours: Monday-Tuesday: 1pm -11 pm; Wednesday-Saturday: 1pm-12am; Sunday: 1pm -10 pm

Website: http://www.sushi-itto.com.mx

Taquitos PM

Cuisine: Mexican (tacos)
Telephone: (999) 944-0342
Address: Prolongación Montejo no. 382 x 35
Parking: No
Air Conditioned: No
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Monday-Thursday, 7 pm to 2 am; Friday-Sunday, 12 pm to 2 am
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Merida-Mexico/Los-Taquitos-de-PM/30715198715

Todo Latino

Cuisine: Pan-Latin American
Telephone: (999) 926-8090
Address: Avenida 31 #109, between 22 and 24 Streets
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes, a rooftop area with seating… very nice.
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Wednesday to Monday, 12:30 pm to 2 am; Sunday, 12:30 pm to 6 pm

Colonia Mexico Norte:

Byblos

Cuisine: Lebanese
Telephone: (999)  899-0141
Address: Calle 1-G #101, between 14-A and 16 Streets
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: No
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 1 pm to 7 pm

El Postrecito

Cuisine: Desserts and coffee
Telephone: (999)  927-2479
Address: Calle 21 # 111 betwee 22 and 24 Streets
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Soft Drinks
Hours: Monday- Saturday: 12 pm to 11 pm; Sunday from 12 pm to 10 pm
Website: http://www.elpostrecito.com
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/Merida-Mexico/El-Postrecito/114905387216

Sazon Gourmet

Cuisine: Upscale Mexican dishes, breakfast and lunch
Telephone: (999) 927-8776
Address: Calle 21 #80, between 14 and 16 Streets
Parking: Street parking
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Monday – Saturday, 8 am to 4:30 pm

Colonia Mexico Oriente:

La Habichuela

Cuisine: Seafood, Pasta, Chicken, Beef
Telephone: (999) 926-3626
Address: Calle 21 # 416 by 8 Street
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 12 pm to 12 am
Website: http://www.lahabichuela.com/Merida/Merida.htm

Colonia Misne:

Hacienda Misne

Cuisine: Yucatecan and International
Telephone: (999)  940-7150
Address: Calle 19 #172
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 7am to 11 pm
Website: http://www.haciendamisne.com.mx

Colonia Montecristo:

Ichi Sushi

Cuisine: Japanese
Neighborhood: Col. Montecristo
Telephone: (999) 948-0203
Address: Calle 1 # 105, between 8 and 10 Streets
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: No
Hours: Daily,1:30 pm to 11 pm

Colonia Monterreal:

Sensei

Cuisine: Sushi Bar
Telephone: (999) 944-0202
Address: Calle 37 #202, between 18 and 22 Streets
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 1pm to 12 am

Website: www.sensei.com.mx

Colonia San Antonio Cucul:

Vibora de la Mar

Cuisine: Seafood
Telephone: (999) 944-9332
Address: Calle 32 # 55, between 55 and 57 Streets
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: No
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Tuesday to Sunday, 1 pm to 11 pm

Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=16781836654

Colonia Santa Ana:

El Gran Cafe

Cuisine: Coffee and Yucatecan
Telephone: (999)  923 5356
Address: Remate de Paseo de Montejo and Calle 47
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Coffee
Hours: Daily, 7 am to 2 am

Hotel San Angel

Cuisine: Coffee and snacks
Telephone: (999)  928-1800
Address: Remate de Montejo #1
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: No
Hours: Daily, 7 am to 10 pm
Website: http://www.hotelcasasanangel.com

New York, New York

Cuisine: Indian and Italian, New York style
Address: Calle 47 between 58 Street and Paseo Montejo
Parking: No
Air Conditioned: No
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Soft drinks
Hours: Wednesday – Saturday: 6pm – 11pm

Olive Cafe Stop

Cuisine: Coffees and desserts
Telephone: (999) 926-6039
Address: Paseo de Montejo #470-B, between 37 and 39 Streets
Parking: Street parking
Air Conditioned: No
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Coffees, teas and juices
Hours: Monday-Friday 8:30 am to 8 pm; Saturday: 8:30 am to 4 pm
Website: http://olivecafestop.blogspot.com
Facebook: http://www.facebook.com/group.php?v=app_2344061033&ref=ts&gid=87009091690#/group.php?gid=87009091690&ref=ts

Rescoldos Mediterranean Bistro

Cuisine: Mediterranean
Telephone: (999) 286-1028
Address: Calle 62 #366, between 41 and 43 Streets
Parking: No
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Soft Drinks
Hours: Tuesday-Friday 1 pm to 10 pm; Saturday 6 pm to 11 pm

Rosas y Xocolate

Cuisine: International
Telephone: (999) 924-4304
Address: Paseo Montejo #480, by 41Street
Parking: Street parking, and Valet service
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 7:30 am to 12 pm, and 1:30 pm to 12 am
Website: http://www.rosasandxocolate.com

Gran Plaza Shopping Mall:

100% Natural

Cuisine: Vegetarian
Telephone: (999) 948-4590
Address: Calle 8 No.306, between 1 and 1-A Streets, Colonia Gonzalo Guerrero
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Beer and soft drinks
Hours: Daily, 7 am to 11 pm
Website: http://www.100natural.com.mx

Boston’s

Cuisine: American
Telephone: (999)  948-3333
Address: Prolongación Montejo #482
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: No
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 11 am to 2 am
Website: www.bostonsmerida.com

Italianni’s

Cuisine: Italian
Telephone: (999) 948-4597
Address: In the Gran Plaza shopping mall
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: No
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 8 am to 2 am
Website: http://www.italiannis.com

Lapa Lapa

Cuisine: American
Telephone: (999) 948-0102
Address: In the Gran Plaza shopping mall
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: No
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 1pm to 3 am

Hotel Zone (Paseo de Montejo & Avenida Colon):

Chili’s

Cuisine: American
Neighborhood: Hotel Fiesta Americana
Telephone: (999)  925-6346
Address: Hotel Fiesta Americana
Parking: Yes, underground parking at the Fiesta Americana
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: No
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 8am to 12 am
Website: http://www.chilis.com

Fiesta Americana Restaurant  

Cuisine: Buffet and International Menu
Telephone: (999)  942-1111
Address: Fiesta Americana
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: No
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 8 am to 1 pm

La Pigua

Cuisine: Seafood
Neighborhood: Hotel Zone
Telephone: (999) 920-3605
Address: Avenida Cupules and 32 Street
Parking: Yes (Valet)
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: No
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Sunday-Tuesday: 12am to 6 pm; Wednesday-Saturday:12 am to 10:30 pm
Website: http://www.lapiguamerida.com

Los Almendros (Fiesta America)

Cuisine: Yucatecan Cuisine
Telephone: (999) 942-1111
Address: Fiesta Americana Hotel
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: No
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 12:30 am to 10:30 pm

Peregrina Bistro  (Hyatt Hotel)

Cuisine: International
Telephone: (999) 942-1234
Address: Hyatt Hotel
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: No
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 6:30 am to 6 pm

Spasso

Cuisine: Italian
Telephone: (999) 942-1228
Address: Inside the Hyatt Hotel
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: No
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 6pm to 2 am

Website: http://merida.regency.hyatt.com/hyatt/hotels/entertainment/restaurants/index.jsp

Mexican Restaurants with various locations

There are a good number of Mexican chains with multiple locations.  These are some that are found in several neighborhoods, and worth a try.  Most have a presence in Centro and along Paseo Montejo – and most also have websites, so you can look up their locations in other neighborhoods.

El Fogoncito

Cuisine: Tacos and Mexican traditional foods
Telephone: (999)  944 0315
Locations include: Centro (Calle 62 and 61 Street);Prolongación Montejo; and Altabrisa Mall
Parking: Varies with location
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Only at Fogoncito on Prolongación Montejo
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 12 pm to 2 am
Website: http://www.gruponicxa.com.mx/rest/fog/index.html

Eladios

Cuisine: Yucatecan snack and bar foods
Neighborhood: Various locations
Telephone: (999)  984-0057
Locations include: Colonia Itzimna, Centro, Avenida Itzaes, Colonia Pensiones
Parking: Yes, at all locations
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Beer and Cocktails
Hours: Daily, 12 pm to 7 pm
Website: http://www.eladios.com.mx

Italian Coffee Company

Cuisine: Coffee and sandwiches
Neighborhood: Centro (Calle 62 between Calle 59 and 61 Streets) and other locations
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: No in Centro, Yes for other locations
Drinks: Coffee
Hours: Sunday-Friday: 7:30 am to 11 pm Saturdays: 7:30 am to 12 pm
Website: http://www.italiancoffee.com

Las Jirafas

Cuisine: Tacos
Telephone: (999)   926-4391
Locations include: Paseo Montejo, at Calle 56-A #494
Parking: Street parking
Air Conditioned: Varies with location

Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Beer and Cocktails
Hours: Daily, 7pm to 2 am

Los Trompos

Cuisine: Tacos and pizzas
Telephone: (999)   988-4444
Locations include: There are currently 15 locations, so see website
How to Get There from the Centro: Again, see the website
Parking: Some locations
Air Conditioned: Some locations
Outdoors: Some locations
Drinks: Beers and Cocktails
Hours: For those located in shopping centers, daily: 11 am to 10 pm; other restaurants, daily,: 6 pm to 2 am
Website: http://www.lostrompos.com.mx

Messina’s

Cuisine: Pizza
Locations include: Centro
Telephone: (999) 924 9899, or (999) 924 0011
Address: Calle 57 #514-A by 64 Street
Parking: No
Air Conditioned: No
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Soft Drinks
Hours: Daily, 11 am to 12 pm, depending on location
Website: www.buscatan.com/directorio/pizza-messinas-pizzerias-merida-yucatan-505-203.html

Wok to Walk

Cuisine: Asian
Telephone: (999) 944-5866
Address: Various locations, including Prolongación Montejo, Plaza Altabrisa and Plaza Senderos.  Check their website.
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Only at Plaza Mayor
Drinks: No
Hours: Daily, 12 pm to 10 pm
Website: www.woktowalk.com/en/find/index.php

“Puertas Cerradas” (Closed Doors):

“Closed Doors” is a culinary movement in which private dinners are held by renowned chefs, or for special events.  Merida has two “Puertas Cerradas” of renown.  To find out about their upcoming events, you have to contact their websites and make reservations.

Remixto

Cuisine: Underground Sunday Brunch
Neighborhood: Centro
Telephone: (999) 901-5430
Website: www.remixto.com

Casa Catherwood

Cuisine: Underground Sunday Brunch
Neighborhood: Centro
Telephone: (999) 154-5565
Website: www.casa-catherwood.com/puertascerradas

Day Trips from Merida

Izamal

Hotel Macanche

Cuisine: Yucatecan and International
Telephone: (998) 954-0287
Address: Calle 22 # 305 between 33 and 35 Streets
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: No
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Wine or beer
Hours: Daily, but call for reservations
Website: http://www.macanche.com

Sabor de Izamal

Cuisine: Traditional Yucatecan
Telephone: (990) 954-0489
Address: Calle 27 #299, between 28 and 30 Streets
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 11 am to 6 pm
Website: http://www.sabordeizamal.com

Progreso/Celestun

La Palapa

Cuisine: Seafood
Telephone: (998) 916-2063
Address: On the beach
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: No
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 11 am to 6 pm

San Bruno Beach Grill

Cuisine: International
Telephone: (999)   122-5021
Address: On the beach, Km 27.5  on the Carretera Progreso-Telchac
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: No
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Every Day: 1 pm to 10 pm

Taco Maya

Cuisine: Mexican and American
Telephone: (999)   999-145-0623
Address: In front of the baseball park in Chelem
Parking: Yes
Ai rConditioned: No
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Beer and soft drinks
Hours: Saturday – Wednesday, 10 am to 2.30 pm . Closed Thursday & Friday

Haciendas Near Merida

Hacienda de Chunkanan

Town/Village: Cuzamá

Cuisine: Yucatecan
Address: In town (where the horse-drawn carriages are hitched)
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: No
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Not sure, probably beer
Hours: Unknown

Hacienda Ochil

Town/Village: On highway towards Uxmal

Cuisine: Yucatecan
Telephone: (999)  924-7465
Address: Km. 27 Uman-Uxmal highway, near Abala
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: No
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daiy, 10 am to 6 pm
Website: http://www.haciendaochil.com/

Hacienda San Jose

Town/Village: East of Merida, just past Tixkokob

Cuisine: Yucatecan
Telephone: (999)   924-1313
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: No
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 7 am to Noon
Website: www.thehaciendas.com

Hacienda Santa Cruz

Town/Village: Santa Cruz Palomeque, south of the Superhighway Periferico, road to Dzununcan

Cuisine: French and Yucatecan Fusion
Neighborhood: Santa Cruz Palomeque
Telephone: (999)   254-0541
Address: Santa Cruz Palomeque Main Street
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: No
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 7 am to 12 am
Website: http://www.haciendasantacruz.com

Hacienda Santa Rosa

Town/Village: Maxcanu, on the road to Campeche

Cuisine: Yucatecan
Telephone: (999)   910-0174
Address: In the pueblo of Santa Rosa
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: No
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Every Day, 7 am to 12 am
Website: www.thehaciendas.com

Hacienda Temozon

Town/Village: Temozon Sur, on the road to Uxmal, near Temozon village

Cuisine: Yucatecan
Telephone: (999)   923-8089
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: No
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 7 am to Noon
Website: www.thehaciendas.com

Hacienda Teya

 Town/Village: East of Merida, on the road to Cancun

Cuisine: Yucatecan
Telephone: (999)   988-0800
Parking: Yes
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 12 am to 6 pm
Website: http://haciendateya.com

Hacienda Xcanatun

Town/Village: On the road to Progreso, village of Xcanatun

Cuisine: International, with a Yucatecan flair
Telephone: (999)   930-2140
Address: Merida – Progreso Highway, Km. 12
Parking: Parking lot on hacienda grounds
Air Conditioned: Yes
Outdoors: Yes… and it is really lovely!
Drinks: Full bar
Hours: Daily, 8 am to 11:30 am and 1:30 pm to 11 pm
Website: www.xcanatun.com

Tacos al Pastor

Cheap Eats

It is a myth that eating where the “locals” eat is a dangerous practice, where you run the risk of becoming ill.  While we don’t recommend you eat from a street vendor, the same can be said of other places: You’re crazy to eat a hot dog from a vendor in front of Rockefeller Center in New York, or a samosa chaat from a stall in Whitecross Street in London, or a crepe at Montmartre in Paris.  That doesn’t mean that there aren’t terrific “cocina económicas” in town where you can’t have a great meal, for less than what you’d expect to pay for a “value meal” at a fast food restaurant. 

Remember, before there was fast food, there was simple, home-style food prepared by cooks who went to market first thing in the morning and prepared their “Daily Menu,” or “Menú del Día,” to reflect what was seasonal and fresh at the market that day.  Guess what?  This is the old-fashioned way still do things in Mérida.  Listed below are places that, for the price of some fast food combo, you can get a real meal.  The members of this association live and work in town, and these are simple, unpretentious and family-run “economical kitchens,” where you will enjoy very good meal, and that you wouldn’t otherwise know about – since they are not in any guidebooks.

Here are our recommendations:

PLATOS ROTOS – Calle 33-D #498, Suite 3.  Telephone: (999) 925-3097.  A family run sidewalk restaurant, Platos Rotos offers consistently good, satisfying Mexican-style meals, at an incredible bargain price of $36 pesos (about $3.25 US).  This includes your choice of soup or rice plate, plus the main entre, which changes daily.  The enchiladas are great, and so are the chicken and pork dishes.  The “aguas,” refreshing drinks made from seasonal tropical fruit – try the tamarind, lemonade or guanabana are wonderful.  Daniel Segoviano, and his sister Angeles, serve breakfast and lunch, closing up around 3 p.m., when they are done for the day.  Together they provide an exceptional value, and the side, tree-lined street is a great break.  The address is difficult, so here are directions: Make your way to the intersection of Avenida Colón and Avenida Reforma.  On the northwest corner you’ll see the 24-hour office of the CFE.  Walk to that corner, then head north, past a couple of shops and the Teatro.  When you are at the corner, take a left and they are located a few stores down, just past Café Orgánico.  Expect to pay, with a tall glass of agua fresca, $5-6 USD.  Enjoy!

LA LUPITA – In the interior of the market next to the Santiago Church, La Lupita offers simple tacos, soups and pork sandwiches.  Staffed with about a dozen cooks and preps, try tacos de cochinita (pork marinated in chipotle sauce and baked in banana leaves), tacos de lechon asado (Cuban-style pork marinated with garlic, onion, slowly cooked in an underground pit), pavo en relleno negro (turkey soup with polenta-like corn dumplings marinated in a dark, smoky sauce (the sauce is made with burnt chiles de arbol which are then crushed and made into the sauce.).  The orange juice is freshly squeezed, and the horchata is freshly made.  You’ll see employees from the electric company (CFE), health department (Salud) and other office workers enjoying a hearty breakfast.  How to find them?  From the park entrance to the Church of Santiago, walk north, and you’ll notice a series of vendors, then an opening into a corridor.  Turn right, and you’ll see the main entrance to the vegetable and flower market.  Walk that way, but before entering, turn to the left, and it is on the corner, on your right-hand side.  They close when the food runs out, which is around noon.  Expect to pay about $4 USD for a satisfying meal.

EL BUEN GUSTO – As long as you are in Santiago, another place is El Buen Gusto, “The Good Taste.”  This is a modest restaurant, but one that is well-known among Canadian and American ex-pats for making great tacos de camarones empanizados – tacos of breaded shrimp.  Freshly delivered from the Progreso Port each morning, and made with fresh, warm tortillas, these tacos are a meal, and when enjoyed with a freshening glass of orange juice, or “agua de sandia” – watermelon natural drink, it is a light, satisfying lunch.  Their sopa de lima, or lime soup, is very good.  Again, you’ll see families and employees from the health department (Salud) and the electric company (CFE) around.  Be mindful that as a family-run business, they close up shop when the food runs out – usually around 2 p.m.  From the park entrance of the Church of Santiago, just walk north, and it is the third stall on your left.  Expect to pay $4-5 USD for lunch.

EL NEGRO – When you find yourself in Santa Ana, on Calle 60 between 47 and 45 Streets, you’ll notice a lively market on the southeastern part of the square.  There are stalls selling clothing and souvenirs on the southern side of the street (on Calle 47, between 58 and 60 Streets), but around the corner towards the park (if you’re walking towards the Pemex gas station, you’re walking in the wrong direction), there are a series of food stalls.  All are decent, but a perennial favorite is El Negro, which serves among the best banana-leaf wrapped tamales and delicious sopa de lima, or lime soup, to be had anywhere in town.  If you go there in the heat of the day, one option to consider is to cross the street (south side of Calle 47) and buy beers from the convenience store, then head to El Negro for a savory lunch.  They won’t mind your bringing your own beer, especially since none of the market stalls are authorized to do so.  Expect to pay $4-5 USD for lunch.

TIO WILL – Calle 70 #560-A, between 63 and 65 Streets.  Telephone: (999) 924-4021.  A few blocks north of the main bus station, and a three blocks south of the Church of Santiago one finds “Uncle Will.”  For almost a quarter century, Wilber has been cooking away, mostly for the folks who live in the neighborhood – which includes a good number of American and Canadian ex-pats.  The quality of his menu, with simple, every day fare, garners good reviews, and several Bed & Breakfasts have lunch delivered from Tío Will.  That certainly is a vote of confidence.  The place is simple to the point of being Spartan; the feel is of being in an old Western movie, where cowboys arrive at a dusty Mexican café in the middle of the desert.  You expect Kirk Douglas or Clint Eastwood, guns drawn to enter through the doors at any moment.  But that’s just wishful thinking.  The specialities are queso relleno, which is a hollowed-out Edam (Dutch) cheese, where the soft part of the cheese is removed, and the rind is stuffed and steamed.  Also try the Enchiladas Suizas (creamy enchiladas served with Chicken, tomatoes and green chile).  Two pork dishes stand out: Puerco empanizado (breaded pork) and Poc Chuc, a Maya dish.  Born in the Yucatecan countryside, when electricity – and therefore refrigeration – was rare, pork was salted to preserve them.  Poc Chuc uses sour orange and vinegar to remove the saltiness of th meat, and it is slow cooked until moist and tender, with onions added to round out the flavors, which are heightened when eaten with warm corn tortillas.  A nice selection of “aguas frescas,” and soft drinks rounds out a good lunch.  As with most other cocinas económicas, Tío Will closes when the food runs out: Hours are from 7:30 a.m. to around 4 p.m.  Expect to pay $4-6 USD.

CAFÉ LUPITA – Just south and to the west of San Sebastian Park, on Calle 81-A, steps from the corner of Calle 72.  This is a simple, unpretentious restaurant in a charming part of town, where grandparents escort their grandchildren to elementary school, and youngsters chase each other down the streets and the park  Few tourists venture in this area, and if they needed an excuse to stroll quiet, colonial streets where they can see yucatecos at home and play, away from the familiar tourist haunts, then this gem of a cocina económica is an incentive to go.  With a charming outdoor area under a comfortable tile roof, this restaurant specializes in grilled steak (bistec a la Mexicana), which includes roasted tomatoes and a savory jalapeños, with a side of black bean soup; and grilled chicken (pollo asado), served with a side of rice or vegetable soup.  Throughout the Yucatán, you’ll find that “vegetable” soup consists of three or four kinds of squash and pumpkins, carrots, celery and onions.  The horchata, a refreshing drink made of almonds, rice and sugar; and the aguas frescas – their sandia (watermelon) and lemonade are wonderful – will set you back about $1 USD.  And if you arrive between 1 p.m. and 2 p.m. you are sure to see a sight that is memorable, and a sign of a good place to eat: neighbors showing up with their containers getting food to go – to take back home and serve their families.  Expect to pay $4-6 USD.

Remember, there are dozens of wonderful cocinas económicas.  Just ask your hosts at the Bed & Breakfast you’re staying at for other recommendations.

What if you’re not up for a full meal, or want something on the run? 

Here are our recommendations on a place where you can get great sorbets, one good bakery and the one street vendor whose food is so good, her recipes have been published in the New York Times – the only street vendor in Mexico who can make that claim!

El Colón

Since 1907, Sorbetería “El Colón” has been making wonderful, natural sorbets.  In the land where chocolate and vanilla originated, one would expect to find fantastic chocolate and vanilla sorbets – and one does.  The “chocolate” and “mantecado” sorbets at El Colón rival any found anywhere else.  Their coconut (coco) sorbet is exquisite.  And, this being the tropics, go ahead and try something exotic.  The menu board lists the flavors of the day, which reflects what’s in season: tamarindo, guanabana, mamey, zapote are wonderful fruits.  But if you want to stick to the familiar, remember fresa is Spanish for strawberry and duranzo is Spanish for peach.  And there is one flavor that you simply have to try: elote, which is corn.  As counterintuitive as it may sound, Maya corn sorbet is sweet, and refreshing, and so extraordinary, you’ll wish you could buy it back home.  One final vote of confidence: Whenever the president is in Mérida, pints in all varieties are sent to his office, a long-standing tradition that began in the 1920s.  There are two locations.  The main branch is on the northwest section of the Main Square (Zocaló), Calle 62 #500 between 50 and 61 Streets.  The other location is on Paseo Montejo #474.  Telephone: (999) 928-1497.  A sorbet runs about $2.25 USD.  And here’s a good-karma suggestion: If you speak a little Spanish, and a young child selling candy and gum approaches you, treat them to a sorbet.  For the kid, it will be such a treat, and for you, it will make your soul feel good.

El Retorno

El Retorno Bakery is an exceptional bakery, where the coffee cakes (with pumpkin, cheese or condensed milk) are wonderful, and the pastries are light without being too sweet.  As a general rule, great bakeries and bread are difficult to find in Mexico.  Why?  Well, as any anthropologist will tell you: societies are classified by the primary carbohydrate in their diet: Europeans eat wheat and Latin Americans eat corn.  The culture of transforming wheat into wonderful baked goods is the tradition of Europe, not the Americas.  El Retorno, however, offers one of the best selections of baked goods in town.  It may not impress the French or Italians, but if you are eager for a good bread roll, coffee cake or pastry that’s not too sweet, drop by.  It should also be pointed out that prices for many baked goods are controlled by the government, and that means that many baked products are an exceptional value.  True, a loaf of French bread is twice as good at Fauchon in Paris or at Zabar’s in New York, but bread at either of those places cost 5 or 7 times as much.  The main branch is in the Colonia (suburb) of Cortés Sarmiento, but there is a branch steps from the Main Square (Zócalo), Calle 62 #500, Suite I, between 50 and 61 Streets.  Telephone: (999) 928-5634.  The entrance is a set of sliding glass doors on the eastern side of the street, just a few steps north of the Main Square along Calle 62 – easy to miss, so be mindful.